It's a Stitch Up » Knitting patterns

Aduki hat

Suzie — Sun, 14 Feb 2010 16:14:15 +0000

Aduki hat in Colinette ART yarn

A slouchy, garter stitch hat in an easy, two-colour stripe and slip-stitch pattern.

I designed this hat to show off the beautiful, jewel-like colours of Colinette ART and to make the most of the wool / bamboo blend’s subtle sheen and drape.

The hat is worked in the flat and seamed, and is suitable for novice knitters familiar with knit and purl. You may want to read this article on seaming if you need help with mattress stitch.

Knit it to suit your tastes – add more slouch or make it fitted, two colours or one – it’s up to you!

Size

Small: to fit head circumference 51 cm / 20 inches
Medium: 56 cm / 22 inches
Large: 61 cm / 24 inches

Requirements

Yarn & notions

Suitable for worsted / light aran weight yarns. Wool / bamboo or wool / silk blends will give the intended amount of drape, but pure wools and smooth-textured yarns can also be used.

Main colour: 82 (91, 100) metres / 90 (100, 110) yards. Pictured in Colinette ART (80% wool, 20% bamboo) in ‘Nocturne’.
Contrast colour: 65, (74, 83) metres / 71 (81, 91) yards. Picture in Colinette ART in ‘Star Anise’.

2 x 100 g skeins of Colinette ART will make two hats (with main and contrast colours reversed).

Needles & equipment

4 mm needles
5 mm needles
Ruler or measuring tape
Yarn needle

Tension / gauge

22 (DK) / 18 (aran) / 14 (chunky) stitches over 10 cm (4 in.) in garter stitch

PDF download, price £2.50
Buy now

Posted by suzie for It's a Stitch Up, © 2010
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Odds & Ends Scarf

Suzie — Wed, 13 Jan 2010 22:45:58 +0000

Odds and Ends Scarf

A simple, fun, unisex scarf, worked in a variety of easy, reversible stitches in either DK, aran or chunky weight yarn. Use a single shade for a classic look, or combine your leftovers and work each square in a different yarn to create something totally unique.

This pattern is suitable for novice knitters familiar with knit and purl and changing between the two. It’s a great way to practice some new stitches. If you’re a very new knitter, I recommend you work through parts 1-4 of Lion Brand’s Learn to Knit site, and familiarise yourself with those techniques (cast-on, knit, purl and ribbing).

I was inspired to design this scarf after being lucky enough to knit with Kelley Deal at ATP festival. Kelley created beautiful scarves by combining everyone’s squares, knitted in different colours and stitches. Knitting a long scarf is less daunting when it’s done in bite-sized chunks, and the results can be stunning.

Size

All versions measure approx. 182 cm (72 inches) long and 14 cm (6 inches) wide.

Requirements

Yarn & notions

Suits smooth-textured, bouncy, pure wool yarns that show stitch definition and hold their shape well.

For the DK version: 410 m / 450 yards. Suggested yarn: 4 x 50 g balls of Rowan Pure Wool DK
For the aran version: 390 m / 415 yards. Suggested yarn: 2.5 x 100 g balls of Rowan Pure Wool Aran
For the chunky version: 240 m / 260 yards. Suggested yarn: 2 x 100 g skeins of Rowan Colourscape Chunky (pictured in shade 436 ‘Northern Lights’)

Odds and ends scarf

Needles & equipment

For the DK version: 4 mm needles
For the aran version: 5 mm needles
For the chunky version: 6.5 mm needles
Ruler or measuring tape
Yarn needle
Pins for blocking
Crochet hook for attaching tassels (optional)

Tension / gauge

22 (DK) / 18 (aran) / 14 (chunky) stitches over 10 cm (4 in.) in garter stitch

PDF download, price £2.50
Buy now

Model: Kathryn, photography with help from Joseph Hughes

Posted by suzie for It's a Stitch Up, © 2010
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iPhone cosy

Suzie — Mon, 22 Jun 2009 22:22:16 +0000

iPhone Cosy in Colinette Jitterbug 'Morello Mash'

An iPhone cover in 4 ply merino, knitted in the round, in a textured stitch.

If, like me, you’ve just fallen in love with your new iPhone 3G S, you’ll want to protect it. What better way than a waffle-stitch cosy?

Your iPhone deserves the best, so choose something with a lot of bounce to show-off the stitch pattern. Some left over, hand-painted, superwash merino sock yarn is ideal.

Instructions are given for double pointed needles, but it easily be knit on circular needles using the magic loop technique. The bottom of the cost is joined using the three-needle cast-off (that’s ‘bind-off’ to US English speakers). This technique is a bit fiddly but easy to master, a sewn seam could alternatively be used.

Size information

The finished cosy measures 13.5 x 6 cm (5 1/4 x 2 1/4 in.) unstretched, and will stretch to fit an iPhone or other device measuring approx. 11.5 x 6 x 1 cm (4 1/2 x 2 1/5 x 1/2 in.).

Requirements

Yarn & notions

55 m (60 yards) heavy 4 ply superwash merino such as Colinette Jitterbug (pictured) or Debbie Bliss Rialto 4 ply

Needles & equipment

4 x 2 mm double pointed needles
4 x 2.75 mm double pointed needles

If using circular needles, you will need a spare 2.75 mm needle for the three-needle cast-off.

Tension/gauge

38 sts and 48 rows over 10 cm (4 in.) square in unstretched waffle pattern

Instructions

iPhone Cosy

Ribbed edging

Using smaller needles, CO 42 sts

Distribute sts across three needles. Join to work in the round, taking care not to twist work.

Next row (rib): [K1, p1] to end

Work 5 rows more in 1 x 1 rib

Body

Switch to larger needles

Waffle pattern

Row 1: Purl
Rows 2-4: [P1, k2] to end

Continue in waffle pattern until work measures 13 cm (5 in.), ending with row 3 of pattern

Next row (decrease): [K2tog, k1] to end (28 sts)

Turn work inside out, distribute sts evenly on 2 needles, 14 sts on each

Work three needle cast-off

Weave in ends and turn right-side out

Posted by suzie for It's a Stitch Up, © 2009
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Baby wrap-cardigan

Suzie — Sun, 04 Jan 2009 20:34:49 +0000

Baby wrap cardigan in stripes

A seamless baby wrap-cardigan in DK weight cotton, with contrast edging, buttons and hidden press-stud fastenings. The body is knitted in one piece with the sleeves knitted onto the armholes in-the-round.

I wanted to create a garment for a friend’s new baby boy that would be comfy and easy to get on and off. There are plenty of cardigan patterns for baby girls, but I couldn’t find anything that would suit a baby boy so I decided to create one. I chose easy-to-care-for cotton. But, as cotton can be stiff around the seams, I opted for seam-free construction.

The sleeves are knit on a circular needle using the magic loop technique, double-pointed needles could also be used. Shoulder sections are joined using the three-needle cast-off (that’s ‘bind-off’ to US English speakers). This technique is a bit fiddly but well worth it for softer, flatter seams. This pattern also uses the basic intarsia technique to join areas worked in different colours.

The sample shown is striped but the instructions are for a single colour with contrast edging.

Schematic

Size information

The sizes are based on the standard baby measurements on Yarn Standards, but I have modified the proportions, reducing widths slightly, based on feedback from parents. If in doubt, measure the baby! Choose the size closest to the baby’s body circumference and add or reduce rows at the suggested point to obtain the desired length.

Approx. age	months	0-3	(3-6	6-12	12-18)
Chest circumference	inches	14	(16	18	19)
Chest circumference	cm	36	(41	46	48)
Garment width (a)	inches	9.5	(10.5	11.5	12)
Garment width (a)	cm	24	(27	29	30)
Garment length (b)	inches	9	(10	10.5	11)
Garment length (b)	cm	23	(25	27	28)
Sleeve length (c)	inches	5.5	(6.5	7.5	8.5)
Sleeve length (c)	cm	14	(16.5	19	22)

Requirements

Yarn & notions

2 (3, 3, 3) x 50 g balls Rowan Milk Cotton for main colour (MC)
1 x 50 g ball Rowan Milk Cotton for contrast colour (CC)
2 x 1 cm (2/5 inch) buttons
2 small press studs

Needles & equipment

3.5 mm circular needle
4 mm circular needle
Extra 4 mm needle for three-needle cast-off
3 x stitch holders or scrap yarn
2 x removable stitch markers

Tension/gauge

22 sts and 30 rows over 10 cm (4 in.) square in stocking stitch

Instructions

Body

Baby wrap cardigan

With 3.5 mm circular needle, CO 156 (174, 189, 198) sts in CC

Next row (rs): [K1, p1] to end (work an extra p1 on third size)
Work 5 further rows in 1 x 1 rib, ending with a ws row

Change to 4 mm circular needle

Row 1 (rs): Using CC, rib 5 sts, change to MC, k to end
Row 2 (ws): K5, p to last 5 sts, change to CC, bringing CC up underneath MC to prevent a gap forming (intarsia technique), rib 5 sts
Be sure to use the intarsia technique in subsequent rows when changing between MC and CC

Next row (rs buttonhole row): K1, p1, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, change to MC, k to end
Next row (ws): as row 2

Continue working rows 1 & 2 until work measures 6.5 (7.5, 7.5, 9) cm / 2.5 (3, 3, 3.5) in., ending with a ws row. Add or reduce rows here in order to achieve desired garment length.

Shape front slopes

Next row (rs): Work 11 (13, 14, 15) sts, transfer these sts to a stitch holder or scrap yarn, work 41 (45, 49, 51) sts, place marker, work 52 (58, 63, 66) sts, place marker, work to end
Next row (ws): Work 11 (13, 14, 15) sts, transfer these sts to a stitch holder or scrap yarn, work to end. 134 (148, 161, 168) sts

Next row (rs dec): K1, sl1, k1, psso, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Next row (ws dec): P1, p2tog, p to last 3 sts, p2tog tbl, p1

Repeat these 2 rows 3 times more. 118 (132, 145, 152) sts

Continue, decreassing on rs only, until work measures 13 (14, 14.5, 15) cm/5 (5.5, 5.75, 6) in.

Seperate front right

Next row (rs): Work rs decrease, knit to marker, turn

Work these sts only, decreasing at start each rs row as before, until 13 (15, 17, 18) sts

Continue without shaping until work measures 23 (25, 27, 28) cm / 9 (10, 10.5, 11) in. from cast-on edge, ending with a ws row

Leave remaining sts on the needle for later three-needle cast-off

Back

With rs facing, rejoin yarn at back right armhole

Work to second marker, turn. Working on these 52 (58, 63, 66) sts only, continue in stocking stitch until work measures 23 (25, 27, 28) cm / 9 (10, 10.5, 11) in., ending with a rs row.

Next row: P13 (15, 17, 18), transfer next 26 (28, 29, 30) sts to a stitch holder or scrap yarn, p remaining 13 (15, 17, 18) sts

Join right front and right back shoulder seams using three-needle cast-off technique

Left front

With rs facing, rejoin yarn at left armhole, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Next row (ws): Purl

Continue decreasing this way until 13 (15, 17, 18) sts

Continue without shaping until work measures 23 (25, 27, 28) cm / 9 (10, 10.5, 11) in., ending with a rs row

Join left front and left back shoulder seams using three-needle cast-off technique

Sleeves (both alike)

Using 4 mm nedle, with rs facing, starting at armhole, pick-up-and-knit 23 (25, 27, 28) sts to shoulder seam, turn, pick up 23 (25, 27, 28) sts to armhole (picking up approx 3 sts for every 4 rows). 46 (50, 54, 56) sts

Join to work in the round using magic loop technique

Knit 3 (3, 4, 4) rounds

Next row (dec): K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, sl1, k1, psso, k1

Continue in stocking stitch, working a decrease row every 3rd (3rd, 4th, 4th) row until 28 (28, 32, 32) sts

Continue without shaping until sleeve measures 11 (14, 17, 19) cm / 4.5 (5.5, 6.5, 7.5) in.

Change to 3.5 mm needle

Using CC, [k1, p1] to end
Work a further 5 rows in 1 x 1 rib

Cast off loosely in rib

Body ribbing

Transfer 11 (13, 14, 15) sts of left edge of right front from stitch holder to 3.5 mm needle

With rs facing, join CC at outer edge and knit the 11 (13, 14, 15) transferred sts
Pick-up-and-knit 1 sts for every row along right front slope to shoulder
Transfer back neck sts from stitch holder and knit these sts
Pick-up-and-knit 1 st for every row along left front slope
Transfer remaining 11 (13, 14, 15) sts of right edge of left front slope from stitch holder and knit these sts

Count sts to check whether you have an odd or even number

Next row (ws): Purl, working a single decrease at centre back neck if necessary to ensure an odd number of sts

Next row (rs buttonhole row): K1, p1, k1, yo, k2tog, [k1, p1] to last st, k1
Next row (ws): [P1, k1] to last st, p1

Next row (rs): [K1, p1] to last st, k1
Next row (ws): [P1, k1] to last st, p1

Hidden inner fastening with press studs

Repeat the last 2 rows once more

Cast off in rib

Finishing

Sew on buttons

Sew on press-studs to fasten garter stitch edge of left front to inside of right front, taking care to make stitches invisible from the right side of right front.

Posted by suzie for It's a Stitch Up, © 2009
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Staggered rib scarf

Suzie — Sun, 23 Nov 2008 13:50:10 +0000

Staggered-rib scarf

A cosy, chunky-weight scarf in a reversible, diagonal rib pattern.

When I came across this stitch pattern I knew it was ideal for a scarf – simple, reversible, quicker to knit than seed stitch and normal 2×2 ribbing (because it compresses less).

I’ve given it a beginner rating because it’s entirely knit and purl. However, it requires a bit of concentration at first because you have to purl stitches that look like they should be knit and vice versa. If you get lost, use the photos below to check whether you’re on an odd side (rib pattern moves one stitch right) or an even side (pattern does not move). I have given instructions for slipping the first stitch of each row for neater edges.

The yarn I have chosen is a warm and luxurious blend of merino, alpaca and silk. The silk and alpaca give it a lovely drape. This can be substituted for any chunky-weight yarn. To knit this pattern in using yarn of a different weight, simply swatch using the yarn’s recommended needle size to find the number of stitches that will give the width you want, then round to the nearest multiple of four.

Size information

Length: 156 cm (62 in.)
Width: 13.5 cm (5.25 in.)

Requirements

Yarn & notions

4 x 50 g hanks Mirasol Sulka (pictured in shade 221)

Needles & equipment

6.5 mm needles

Tension/gauge

14 sts and 18 over 10 cm (4 in.) squared in staggered rib pattern

Instructions

Odd side - diagonal runs top right to bottom left

CO 24 sts

Row 1 (first row only): [K2, p2] to end
Row 2: Sl1, k1, p2, [K2, p2] to end
Row 3: Sl1, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p2, k1
Row 4: Sl1p, [k2, p2] to last 3 sts, k2, p1
Row 5: Sl1, p1, [k2, p2] to last 2 sts, k2
Row 6: Sl1p, p1, [k2, p2] to last 2 sts, k2
Row 7: Sl1p, [k2, p2] to last 3 st3, k2, p1
Row 8: Sl1, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p2, k1
Row 9: Sl1p, k1, [p2, k2] to last 2 sts, p2

Repeat rows 2-9 until you run out of yarn.

Even side - diagonal runs top left to bottom right

Cast off

Posted by suzie for It's a Stitch Up, © 2008
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Ruffle lace scarf

Suzie — Wed, 05 Nov 2008 23:10:24 +0000

Ruffle lace scarf

A corkscrew scarf in medium weight mohair, knitted lengthways with simple yarn-over increases.

I’ve wanted to knit a corkscrew scarf for a while, but couldn’t find an example with enough interest in the stitch pattern. I chose purl ridges with yarn-over increases, creating a lacy, textured knit that works well with mohair.

I added silver lurex thread, held with the main yarn, for a subtle sparkle in the icy blue. Lurex thread is available from the Handweavers Studio in Walthamstow, London for just £0.50 for 5g (plenty for this project) – they do mailorder!

Don’t be alarmed by the stitch count of the final rows. When you’re lost in the limbo of 1000 sts, remember that the you’re only knitting one 100 g hank, so it can’t go on forever!

Size information

Length at cast-on edge: 180 cm (71 in.)
Width (flat): 11 cm (4.25 in.)

Requirements

Yarn & notions

Please read important note on yardage.

1 x 100 g hanks Colinette Mohair (pictured in ‘Elephants Daydream’), or
Approx. 200 m any mohair blend yarn with recommended needle size of 4-5 mm
200 m lurex thread (optional)

Needles & equipment

7 mm circular needle, 100 cm or longer

Tension/gauge

12 sts over 10 cm (4 in.) in stocking stitch

Ruffle lace scarf

Instructions

CO 128 sts

Row 1: Purl
Row 2: Knit
Row 3: K1 [yo, k1] to end (255 sts)
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: Purl
Row 6: Knit
Row 7: Knit
Row 8: Purl
Row 9: P1 [yo, p1] to end (509 sts)
Row 10: Knit
Row 11: Knit
Row 12: Purl
Row 13: Purl
Row 14: Knit
Row 15: K1 [yo, k1] to end (1017 sts)
Row 16: Purl

Cast off

Special thanks to Heidi for modelling in the photos.

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Dream shrug

Suzie — Sun, 12 Oct 2008 14:45:58 +0000

Dream shrug. Photo: Alex

A lacework shrug in mohair with elbow-length sleeves and deep ribbing.

I created the Dream shrug after finding some brightly-coloured vintage 80s mohair. I used a ripple lace pattern to show-off the beautiful colour changes. The yarn I used (Argyll Mohair) is sadly long discontinued, I have suggested modern alternatives.

The shrug is knitted sideways, in one piece, in the flat on straight needles, then the sleeves are seamed. The ribbing around the body is knitted on circular needles, using the pick-up and knit technique.

The shrug has no discernible top or bottom, the lace pattern has a lot of stretch and it will fit either way up. The finished garment is lightweight and surprisingly cosy thanks to the mohair’s amazing thermal properties.

Size information

Instructions are given for the smallest size, other sizes are shown in brackets. Larger needles are used for the lace pattern on the largest two sizes in order to increase the width – the stitch count is the same.

Chest measurement at underarm (above bust)	inches	32	(34	36	38	40)
Chest measurement at underarm (above bust)	cm	81	(86	94	97	102)
Sleeve length	inches	10	(10.5	10.5	11	11)
Sleeve length	cm	25	(27	27	28	28)
Total length (cuff to cuff)	inches	36	(39	41	45	47)
Total length (cuff to cuff)	cm	91	(99	104	114	119)
Width (unfolded)	inches	11	(11	11	12	12)
Width (unfolded)	cm	28	(28	28	30	30)

Requirements

Yarn & notions

1 (1, 1, 2, 2) x 100 g hanks Colinette Mohair, or
2 (2, 2, 3, 3) x 50 g balls Sirdar Blur, or
Approx. 400m any mohair blend yarn with recommended needle size of 4-5mm

Needles & equipment

5.5 mm circular needle, 80cm or longer
9 (9, 9, 10, 10) mm straight needles
2 removable stitch markers

Tension/gauge

Tension is not critical – both the lace and the ribbing have a lot of stretch.

Instructions

Photo: Alex

Cuff

With smaller needles, CO 54 sts

Working flat, [k1 p1] to end

Repeat for a further 4 rows

Switch to larger needles

[K1 k2tog] to end (36 sts)
Purl one row

Sleeves and body

Ripple pattern. Photo: Alex

Ripple pattern

Worked over multiples of 18 sts

Row 1: [K2tog] x 3, [k1 yo] x 6, [k2tog] x 3. Repeat this pattern once more to end of row (36 sts)
Rows 2 & 3: Knit
Row 4: Purl

Continue in ripple pattern until work measures 35 (38, 40, 44, 46) inches, 89 (97, 102, 112, 117) cm from cast on edge

Cuff

Switch to smaller needles

Next row: [Kfb K1] to end (54 sts)
Next 5 rows: [K1 p1] to end

Cast off in rib using larger needle.

Photo: Alex

Sleeve seams

With right side facing, fold work in half lengthways

Place a stitch marker 10 (10.5 10.5 11 11) inches, 25 (27, 27, 28, 28) cm from cast-on edge, measured along raw edge, catching both thicknesses and matching pattern. Repeat for the cast-off edge.

Join sleeve seam from cast-on edge to first marker, and from cast-off edge to second marker, using whip stitch.

Ribbing

Using smaller circular needle, starting at right-hand marker, pick-up and knit 66 (74, 82, 95, 103) sts along raw edge to second marker. Turn work. Pick-up and knit 66 (74, 82, 95, 103) sts along opposite raw edge to first marker.

Join to work in the round, knit 1 row

Next row: [K1, p1] to end

Continue in 1×1 rib until ribbing measures 5 inches

Cast off loosely in rib using the larger needle.

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Stash-buster cushion

Suzie — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 20:22:42 +0000

A cusion cover with knitted front and fabric back in a slip-stitch pattern in several colours. I have used a a zip fastening. If you really like stocking stitch you could knit the back and fasten it with buttons.

This is a great way to use up leftovers from other projects. Each coloured row used no more than 5g of yarn. I used nine different shades of a variety of aran weight wool – Jaeger Extra Fine Merino Aran in Jet for the main colour and Debbie Bliss Merino Aran, Rowan Pure Wool Aran, Noro Cash Iroha and assorted mohair for the contrast colours.

I discovered the stitch pattern by accident; I was looking up mosaic garter stitch when I came accross a brick pattern on Knitty.com. I added extra rows to to give a more honeycombed effect.

I went for a rainbow effect because my stash tends to be full of bright colours, but this pattern would work equally well with muted colours, and would look great with a lighter shade replacing black as the maincolour.

Size information

This pattern makes a cushion cover to fit a 45 x 45cm (18 x 18 inch) pad.

Requirements

Yarn & notions

Approx. 85 m (93 yards) (1 x 50g ball) Aran weight yarn for main colour (MC)
Approx. 170 m (186 yards) assorted aran weight yarn for contrast colours (CC1, CC2, etc.)
51 x 48 cm (20 x 19 in.) stiff backing fabric (corduroy is ideal)
1 x 45 cm (18 inch) zip
Sewing thread

Needles & equipment

5 mm knitting needles
Yarn needle
Sewing machine
Sewing needles

Tension/gauge

20 sts 28 rows over 10 cm (4 in.) square in slip-stitch pattern. Tension is not critical as the knitted front of the cushion is stretched to fit.

Instructions

Knitted cushion front

CO 80 sts in MC

Next row (rs): Knit
Next row (ws): Purl
Repeat last two rows once more

Slip-stitch pattern

Rows 1 & 3: In CC1, [k5, sl1p] to last 2 sts, k2
Row 2 & 4: CC1 p2, [sl1p, p5] to end
Row 5: K in MC
Row 6: P in MC
Rows 7 & 9: In CC2 k2 [sl1p k5] to end
Row 8 & 10: In CC2 [p5, sl1p] to last 2 sts, p2
Row 11: K in MC
Row 12: P in MC

Work in pattern, using each contrast colour in turn, until work measures 45 cm (18 in.), ending with row 4 or row 10 of pattern.

Change to MC
Next row (rs): Knit
Next row (ws): Purl
Repeat last two rows once more
Cast off.

Fabric backing

Attaching the zip to the fabric backing

Cut the fabric into two pieces so one measures 48 x 45 cm (19 x 17 1/2 in.) and the other strip measures 48 x 6 cm (19 x 2 1/2 in.).

Fold over and press 1.5 cm (5/8 in.) seam allowance along one of the 48 cm (19 in.) edges of each piece.

With right sides up, place the pressed edge of the large piece along the length of the zip, so that the pressed edge meets the centre of the zip teeth. Tack into place 5 mm (1/4 in.) from edge. Do the same with the smaller piece of fabric along the other side of the zip. Stitch along tacking.

Partly open the zip. With right-sides facing, pin the front of the cushion to the back, stretching the knitted side so that the edges match up. Tack with a 1.5 cm (5/8 in.) seam, stitch.

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